It's still dark when we arrive at the commuter terminal, where we find ourselves surrounded by a mob of intense looking, camo-clad people traveling to Lanai with us for an archery competition.
This is our first time flying Island Air and I'd worried about our flight being delayed, but we're off to a good start.
Plane getting prepped.
When we start our final descent, a large herd of axis deer pops out of the bushes as if to tempt the hunters, but it appears they've all failed to notice the 15 odd animals prancing around. Deer 1 - achers 0!
We walk across the tarmac to Lanai airport's terminal 1 and only. So tiny! The camo-clan and I hang around the single luggage belt for a while waiting for our luggage, while Sandy calls the agent from 808 Hummers to find out where to pick-up our rental.
Turns out its quite easy to spot an orange Hummer in the airport's teeny parking lot. No time to waste, so after literally climbing into the cab we hit the road.
Morning rush hour
Holy Hummer! That's a lot of car!
There are only three hotels on the entire island and as luck (or lack of alternatives) would have it the road takes us past the pastures of the Lodge at Koele where we pull over for a quick horsey fix.
Farewell pavement ... hello, dirt road!
Off to an easy start
The land of red dirt ... everything by the side of the road is coated in it.
Of all the things I want to see on Lanai, the outlandish Keahiakawelo (Garden of the Gods) is the one we'll start with and the one I've been looking forward to the most.
From big boulders ...
... to little pebbles ...
... and mammoths begging to be conquered!
Moving on towards Polihua Beach the road gets worse the closer we get; ruts, dips, bounces and boulders ... love it! I would've been disappointed if we'd rented a Hummer for the little stuff only.
Polihua Beach is a 2 mile stretch of unspoiled white sand beach ideal for playing out all of your deserted island fantasies as you'll likely be the only one there. We park at the small parking strip near the top of the beach (even with a Hummer you have to be careful on sand) and just start walking in a random direction.
Ok, time to leave and let them enjoy it the way we it should be ... alone.
Backtracking towards Garden of the Gods:
Back at Koele, we turn left onto highway 44 one of the island's few paved roads and arguably the most scenic. It's also an access road for the famed Munro Trail, which we'll skip today because we're short on time and confidence navigating this tricky dirt road. Maybe next time?
We have arrived!
Kaiolohia (Shipwreck Beach) is located along the shallow and rocky Kaholi channel that's been the demise of many ships. After World War II several surplus naval vessels were intentionally run aground here as a means of disposal. One of these is still visible to this day, it's rusted hull resting quietly on an offshore reef.
Don't quite know what I was expecting, but seeing the tanker was a bit underwhelming to me ... maybe because it's farther offshore than I thought it would be. That said, the immediate surrounding area alone was worth the drive.
Stomach's rumbling we drive back into the bustling (not) Lanai City Center, where we have a nice lunch on the outdoor lanai at the Blue Ginger café. A little gray and white kitty comes over and politely begs for scraps by doing the kitty-stare-down. Who can resist that?
We fill up at the gas station in Lanai City. Ouch! I think I'll bike next time.
Our last stop of the day is Manele Bay, located just a short distance from the ferry terminal. This way we don't have to worry about getting our timing right and we can just relax on the beach and get some snorkeling in. Or it would've been if I didn't get us lost by directing us to Kaumalapa'u freight harbor. Oops.
Of course, this means pedal to the metal (which on Lanai means cruising along at about 45mph) all the way back towards Lanai City, then on to Hulopo'e Beach Park for some snorkeling
It's so late when we get there that I only have time to snorkel for about five minutes, but with it being touted as one of the best snorkeling destinations of the islands I have to at least see what I'm missing.
We make it to the ferry terminal just in time. I'm so glad we made reservations before coming to Hawaii, because we watch several people get turned back. Yes, it really does sell out sometimes and there aren't a lot of options for lodging so consider yourself warned!
Still, it's whale season and I get to see several tail lobs and pec slaps. A of the time though my view is limited to this:
Sandy manages to keep everything down and I'm so busy looking for whales that I barely get queasy at all. Still, we're both glad to get to Maui.
First order of business is to call Alamo for pick-up since their office is about to close even though they assured us multiple times that they would stay open late to pick up passengers coming in on the last ferry.
Someone answers the phone, but the connection gets lost right after we tell them we have a reservation and someone is supposed to come pick us up from the ferry terminal. We call back immediately but the phone goes unanswered time after time. This is our worst fear realized and the reason we'd made so many calls leading up to today to ensure that this would not happen! It would have been so easy to make other arrangements if only someone had been honest with us. Thanks for nothing Alamo!!!
The sun is setting and the banyan tree comes alive with swarms of birds settling in for the night. A new restaurant is advertising by organizing a small parade of Chinese dragons. The sky changes colors of the harbor ... Such a pleasant scene but hard to enjoy while trying to figure out what to do.
By the time we realize getting a rental car tonight is out of the question most of the ferry traffic has disappeared and with the cabs coming to pick people up. Ugh, one should not be allowed to be this grumpy when on Maui, but it's been a long day and I'm ready for it to be over.
Sometime later a lone cab rolls around the corner and we practically ambush the man. We drive to the hotel in darkness, fork over $18.50 and wearily head to the check-in counter at the Royal Lahaina Resort.
We're not staying at the Royal Lahaina, but at the budget-friendly Ka'anapali Ocean Inn located next to it and there's a big surprise waiting for us: they've upgraded us to an oceanfront suite! If there was a problem with the rental car I can't quite remember it right now haha.
The big question; what did we eat for dinner? Did we eat dinner? All I remember is being super tired and trying to decide what to do about dinner ...
Breakfast: ABC store goodies
Lunch: Blue Ginger
Dinner: ?
Accommodation: Kaanapali Ocean Inn
Nice Read
ReplyDeleteHello darlings,
ReplyDeleteYou always rent such a nice car, this one blends in so wonderful with the surrounding red landscape, and that is really red, red, red. I feel thirsty by only looking at the pictures, ha ha.
The garden of the gods, another highlight, Hawaii keeps on amazing me.
The bucket list, isn't that something from a movie?
Strange, a wrecked ship in paradise, seems like a discord.
Exit Alamo?
Thank you for letting me join you on this trip.
Looking forward to the next one.
Lots of love and kisses xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx,
Joeve